There are approximate 4 1/2 million people bitten each year by dogs. Many of these bites could be prevented by a simple understanding of dogs. Unfortunately, many of the victims of these dog bites are children and many of them need medical attention. However, there are ways to avoid the scene to the left, by simply understanding why dogs bite. Here are the top five reasons that dogs bite.

The Five Main Reasons Dogs Bite

One of the main reasons that dogs bite is for protection of something. Whether it is protection of property or protection of their personal property.

This is a large issue when it comes to dogs, especially when children are bitten. Dogs, just like children, are territorial over their things. This such as toys, food, territory, or their human being. Who are then umber one offenders in this situation? Guard dogs and herding breeds.

Another reasons dogs tend to bite out of nowhere, is fear. This fear is typically toward strangers. This is why we should never approach a dog that we do not know.

Dogs bite when they are startled or un-socialized, and this is impossible to tell any of this just by looking at them from a distance.

One of the most un-readable reasons for dogs to bite is pain. Pain is something that we cannot read in dogs. If you are not sure if your dog is feeling pain, you should schedule a vet appointment.

Even the most well trained dog could turn into a spasmatic biter after they have had puppies. This is something that a child should not test under any circumstances, and is very difficult to train away before the mother loses interest in the puppies at the time of weening. The female dog may be willing to bite at anyone in the entire house, no matter how comfortable they may have been previously.

Prey drive can be a huge instinct to compete with. Unfortunately, this can be triggered by anything, such as someone running by or a bicycle going past.

If you dog has been known to have a prey drive of any sort, it is necessary to train them to the full extent. The issue with a strong prey drive is that even a someone passing by that makes eye contact with your dog can trigger it.

By Charlene Little, Contributing Writer

Crate training is seen by most as a cruel act. However, this simple act can keep your dog out of trouble when you are not home and provide many benefits for your dog. After training your dog will find his crate a great place to kick back and relax in his spare time.

Safety

Dogs are curious creatures. They can be extremely nosy at times, even when they are well trained. Crate training your dog will ensure that they do not get into anything poisonous or dangerous while you are not home. Dogs do not know that electrical wires are dangerous, and unfortunately it does happen. An electrical shock can cause serious injury, respiratory problems, cardiac arrest, and death in a dog. Crating your puppy will prevent this from occurring when you are not home.

Damage Prevention
You would be amazed at how much damage a puppy or a dog, can create. The amount can add up, depending on what their favorite things to chew on are. Some dogs like couch cushions, wooden table legs, and some actually will chew through your wall.

Discipline
No, I do not mean to use the crate as discipline. I mean helping your dog develop a schedule. When you are about to go to work, your dog will learn to go into his crate. Dogs thrive on things being typical and understandable

Somewhere To Hang Out
You have your places to hang out, your dog has his. If properly crate trained, your dog will love to hang out in his crate and will enjoy sleeping there. It will become his space, and a place where he is comfortable and happy.

House Breaking
House breaking your dog can be difficult. However, if your puppy is crate trained, chances are, he won't go to the bathroom in his crate. Dogs do not like to go to the bathroom where they sleep and unless he really has to go, he most likely won't.

About the Author

Charlene Little is the mother of three wonderful boys and a volunteer foster mom for her local animal shelter. She enjoys working with various breeds of dogs and cats in learning social behavior, training, and how to be the successful member of a fur-ever family. She enjoys studying animals' behavior and finding solutions to behavior problems that the everyday person can handle. She covers topics from various forms of aggression and small problem behaviors. Every problem behavior has a solution, and the solution is never to give up on your pet! Love, kindness, and small adjustments could be just what you need.

By Charlene Little, Contributing Writer

There are many ways that dogs get free from a fence, and many do it just for fun. Smaller breed dogs like to run free, and it can quickly become a game to them. Here are some fairly inexpensive tricks to reinforce your fence and keep them from running free.

Chicken Wire
Regardless of what type of fence you have, chicken wire makes a great addition to keep your dog in. dig down several inches below the ground surface.
If you have a wooden fence, attach the chicken wire with u shaped nails to the fence. If your fence is chain link, attach it with strips of wire in a twisted fashion. This will not only keep your dog from tearing through your fence, it will keep them from digging under it as well.

Sideways Planking
If you have a wooden fence that your dog keeps pulling at, use the same boards to reinforce the bottom. Turn the boards sideways, this way, even if they pull piece off of the board, they still cannot escape.

Tie Outs
No one wants to resort to using a tie out on their dog. However, after your dog gets out of your yard and goes for their stroll, tie them out the next few times they go outside. After a few times of getting out and then having to be tied out, they may change their mind about going for a stroll alone.

Exercise Your Dog
Your dog may be getting out because he is bored. Take him for a walk at least twice a day, this may cure his taste for freedom and exercise. Give him lots of treats and toys, an under stimulated dog will find plenty of mischief to get into.

Even if you are tired, there are great ways to exercise your dog. Playing fetch does not take much out of you, simply sit in a lawn chair and toss a ball. Your dog will love it, and you can sit back with a cold glass of lemonade.

About the Author

Charlene Little is the mother of three wonderful boys and a volunteer foster mom for her local animal shelter. She enjoys working with various breeds of dogs and cats in learning social behavior, training, and how to be the successful member of a fur-ever family. She enjoys studying animals' behavior and finding solutions to behavior problems that the everyday person can handle. She covers topics from various forms of aggression and small problem behaviors. Every problem behavior has a solution, and the solution is never to give up on your pet! Love, kindness, and small adjustments could be just what you need.

By Charlene Little, Contributing Writer

Crate training your puppy is necessary but can be difficult if you do not properly approach the situation. Approach crate training in a positive manner, never make it a negative experience for your puppy or you will have to start at the beginning and it will be hard to get your puppy to trust it again.

1.) Separate Your Crate
Taking your crate apart and only providing the puppy with the bottom portion to explore will give them a sense of ease. They will have the ability to go in and out without feeling closed in. Provide proper bedding inside the crate, just in case they decide to take a nap. Drop treats in  every once in a while, such as a dog biscuit. They will see that this can be a positive place.

Crate training your puppy is necessary but can be difficult if you do not properly approach the situation. Approach crate training in a positive manner, never make it a negative experience for your puppy or you will have to start at the beginning and it will be hard to get your puppy to trust it again.

2.) Promote Healthy Discovery
When you feel that your puppy is ready, reassemble the crate without the door. Continue to toss treats in throughout the day. This will show them that the closed area is the same as the open one. After a bit, your dog may begin to take naps in the crate and hang out in it. Their treats being tossed in will show them that it is their space.

3.) Make It a Game
Making the crate a game will bring a sense of being there forever. Your puppy will see it as always being there and always being full of treats. They will see it a positive place. Walking by your puppy's crate and tossing in a treat is great but bringing your voice into it really helps. Try tossing a treat in and asking your puppy "where did the biscuit go?" They will associate you being interested in it as well.

4.) Try Crating for Short Periods
When you first start shutting the door, you can try feeding your puppy at his crate. Place his food outside the crate door the first few times. Move the bowl into the center of the crate the next few times, and then to the back for a few times. After a few times of your puppy eating in the back of the crate, try shutting the door. If your puppy dislikes the idea, open it back up. After trying this a few times, try leaving the door shut while you do dishes. Never go to far away from the crate. You do not want them to associate the crate as you putting them in there to leave.

5.) Do not Use Crating as a Punishment
Never use crating as a punishment. You want your puppy to associate the crate with a positive thought. If your puppy begins to associate the crate with negative thoughts, they will not handle crating well in the future.

6.) Do Not Punish Potty Accidents in the Crate
Young puppies do not have very good bladders. They must go to the bathroom often and crating is not ideal for youngsters. Do not punish potty accidents in the crate, your puppy does not like going to the bathroom where he sleeps any more than you like cleaning it up.

7.) Extend Crating Time
Slowly extend crate time. This does not mean make your puppy live in the crate. Allowing him to stay in for a little more time here and there helps them learn the idea of crating. Try leaving him in while you do small chores, such as hanging the clothes on the line, or doing the dishes.

8.) Do a Dry Run
Leave your puppy's crate where you can hear him while you do small gardening projects outside. Place your puppy in the crate for the time that you are doing your project. Make sure to leave the window open while you are outside so you can hear how he is doing. If your puppy does good while he is in the crate, do not go straight to him. Go in, wash your hands and pour yourself a cold drink before letting him out. This will ensure that he does not go crazy when you let him out. It will also let him see that you are there and give him time to adjust back to normal before his door is open.

9.) Crate for a Small Errand
After you are comfortable with the way your puppy is responding to his crate, leave him in for a short time while you run a small errand. Remember, do not let him out the second you come into the house. Give him a few minutes to adjust before you open his door.

10.) Slowly Extend Crate Time
When your puppy is responding well, slowly extend his crate time to a work day. This will ensure that he will get used to being in the crate while you are at work.

Between the time that your puppy is beginning crate training, until he is completely crate trained, you should leave him in a closed room where he cannot get into anything. This will ensure his safety and your ability to completely crate train him before leaving him locked in it for a full shift.

Charlene Little is the mother of three wonderful boys and a volunteer foster mom for her local animal shelter. She enjoys working with various breeds of dogs and cats in learning social behavior, training, and how to be the successful member of a fur-ever family. She enjoys studying animals' behavior and finding solutions to behavior problems that the everyday person can handle. She covers topics from various forms of aggression and small problem behaviors. Every problem behavior has a solution, and the solution is never to give up on your pet! Love, kindness, and small adjustments could be just what you need.

When you think of your puppy, you probably think that they will not have a problem with a collar. However, collars can cause puppies and dogs both distress. This can lead to difficult behavior and lost collars. Properly teaching your puppy to wear a collar can make your life, and theirs, a lot more comfortable.

Let Your Puppy Explore His Collar
Before you attempt to put a collar on your puppy, you should let him explore it long enough to ensure him that it will not harm him. This may even involve letting him chew on one.

Place The Collar on Your Pup:
Place the collar on your pup. If he panics, take it off. You do not want him to become afraid of it.  Try putting it on him a few times per day for a short period of time, but take it off if he seems overwhelmed by it.

When He is Ready:

When your puppy seems comfortable with his collar being placed on him. Leave it for a little longer every time. When you get him to the point where he is comfortable with it for at least 10 minutes, you should be able to leave it on him. If he shows any distress, you should take it off of him immediately.

Once your puppy is able to leave his collar on for an extended period of time, you will want him to get comfortable with it before you begin leash training. Give him at least a week or two, before you attach a leash.

Do you have an adult cat that will not use the litter box? This is a problem for many people. Sometimes it happens to people who have had their cat for years. Other times it happens to those who recently got a new cat from the animal shelter. Either way, you know you have to stop your cat from going to the bathroom where they want, and get them to go where they are supposed to, their litter box. This can be a challenge for even the most determined pet owner, or the most determined trainer. I can tell you through personal experience, it is not easy, but a cat can be retrained to use the litter box. Don't give up on your pet, they love you, and they will adjust to going in the litter box after a little behavior modification.

The method of training that I prefer to use is based on a cat's natural instinct to go to the bathroom in a sandy substance, and the fact that they prefer to bury their waste. These are the instincts that you as a human must rely on. No amount of confining your cat will work unless you rely on your cat's instincts.

Cats are among the most stubborn of creatures. They know they can outsmart you, and they know that you are irritated by their unwillingness to do as they are told. Many people find that their cat will purposely do the opposite of what they say, just because they can, and this is true for many cats.

Where To Start:
If you already have a litter box, you might have to purchase a new one. This is because the cat may not like the one you gave him. Cats are picky and if they despise something, they will show it.

Most cats do not like the idea of an open liter box. They prefer their privacy and they will not go to the bathroom if someone is watching. If you have noticed that your cat does not like their litter box, that might be the problem  you are facing. Try changing their liter box to one of the ones below. This may remedy your problem without having to bat an eyelash.

Change Your Litter:
If your cat still refuses to use the litter box, try changing your cat liter. Some cats do not like the feel of certain litter. I have seen some that prefer the clay gravel litter, and some that prefer the small granulated litter. Many cats will not go in a litter that they do not like.

Keep Your Litter Box Clean:
If you have more than one cat, one of them may not be fond of sharing a toilet with the other, even if they are the best of friends. Purchase a second litter box for the cat that does not want to share. This will ensure that your cat has a clean, personal place to go.

Confining Your Cat:
Unfortunately, you might have to resort to confining your cat for a short period of time while your cat is relearning this step in life. Purchase a small cat carrier that is made of hard plastic, like the one to the right. Keep your cat in it with the litter box, food and water. Do not allow your cat to run about the house until s/he decides to use the litter box. Your cat will not want to go to the bathroom where they eat and sleep, they will eventually decide that they will use the litter box.

Many people shy away from this step because they do not want to spend the money on the heavy duty carrier. Just keep in mind that the price is worth it to save your furniture, and the resale value, even at a yard sale, will be fairly close to what you pay for it.

Once your cat is using the litter box you can open the door and let him him/her out, but leave the cat's litter box inside of the crate for the time being.

Choose a Place For the Litter Box:
Choosing a place for the liter box is a very tedious chore. Mostly because the cat is going to be picky about it himself. Try a place like your bathroom or your laundry room and you will be sure to score points with your cat.

Understanding your cats instincts is important. He will want a private place to go to the bathroom that people cannot watch him.

If you adopt a kitten and it has not been litter trained, chances are it was taken away from its mother to early. Cats are tedious creatures and like things in a certain way. Mother cats insist on cleanliness from their kittens. If provided the resources, they will litter train the kitten by the time they are 8 weeks old. If your kitten isn' t litter trained, the responsibility of mothering this kitten falls on you, and it will not be easy. Cats and kittens are stubborn beings and will fight you tooth and nail about training. With a little persistence and a little stubborn will of your own, you can litter train your kitten.

What You Will Need:
You will need a small, kitten size litter box. This is not the time to buy something fancy, just a little cheap litter box will do. If the litter box is to tall, or the edges are too deep, the kitten will steer clear of this box.

When picking the litter, do not choose a clumping litter. Choose a clay based litter that is unscented. Don't worry, one little kitten won't make it stink right away, they do not produce a lot of waste in a day or two. Simply scooping out solid material will be efficient for a little guy.

Once Your Kitten Starts Using the Box:
Once your kitten begins using the liter box to potty in. Begin moving it toward the place that you actually want to keep the pan. This will allow him to transition to the place that you have chosen for him to potty.

Keep the litter box cleaned and ensure that it does not have an odor. Cats will not use a liter box that has a smell. or visible waste in it. Keep this in mind when you see waste in the box.

Keep A Close Eye on Your Kitten:
Kittens show signs that they have to go. Typically, the meow extremely loud and run toward a hiding spot. If your kitten does this, grab him up and rush him to the litter box.

Cats are very smart creatures. If your kitten has an accident, do not get upset with him and DO NOT rub his nose in it. Simply show him the mess, let him smell it, and walk him to the litter box. After a few times, he will learn to associate the action as "you do not need to go here, you need to go in your pan."

Litter training a kitten takes about 1 month to six weeks.

How To Keep the Pan Clean:
It is important to scoop solid waste once or twice a day. You can place the waste in a plastic, resealable bag so that you don't have to toss it in your trashcan. After the bag is partially full, seal it up and toss it in the garbage.

You should completely dump the pan once every two weeks. Wash out the pan wish dish soap, dry it well, and refill it with about an inch of liter.

As the kitten grows, you can upgrade to bigger and better pans. There are a few recommendations below and I have personally used all three. I prefer the Cat Genie 120, for sanitary reasons. It is the actual model that is in my bathroom as I write this! However, they all have perks. Imagine a world where you don't have to worry about the litter pan other than disposing of waste!

In addition, the Cat Genie 120 uses biodegradable material that is washed every time your cat uses the litter box. I got mine in an effort to help save the environment and keep my hands litter free. How can you beat that?

Creating Your Dog's Living Space:
Creating your dog's living space is simple. The best results will be obtained by giving your dog place to call their own, or a den. This area should contain the dogs bed, food bowl, water bowl, and toys. Many people choose to place the den in their living room, so their dog is near them.

Supervision:
Supervision is necessary. You must pay attention to your dog to learn their potty cues. Many dogs spin in a circle a few times before they begin to relieve themselves. If your dog does this, it is their cue that they need to go to the bathroom.

When you cannot be with them at every second for a while, you need to create a smaller den for your dog. This type of area would be a bathroom, with a baby gate on the door so that you can see in, they can see out, but it limits their ability to make a potty mess on your floor.

Another option for supervision is a crate. If your dog is not crate trained, you may want to baby gate them in the bathroom until you do crate train. Simply tossing your dog in a crate without proper training can be traumatizing.

Going Outside:
Going outside with your dog on bathroom trips is necessary to the training process. You must be able to directly see them do their business to know when to praise them. Praise your dog as soon as they go to the bathroom. Reward them with a lot of pets and tell them that they were a "good boy/girl." Dogs aim to please their owners and will love the attention. They will want to potty outside more often to get the praise.

Take your dog out often. They will need to go out at least six times per day. Take them to the same part of the yard every time. Remember to praise your dog at every success. Do not scold them for not carrying thorough, that will build fear.

Clean Up Potty Spots:
Cleaning up potty thoroughly is unbelievably important. Your dog has a great sense of smell so you must ensure that any potty is thoroughly cleaned up. You don't want your dog to smell any old accidents, they will believe that it is in fact a bathroom.

Deodorant sprays do not work to remove the chemical in a dogs potty that will signal them to go in that spot again. After cleaning the spot use an odor neutralizer,  I recommend vinegar. Your house may smell of vinegar for a day or two, but it is much better than smelling like dog potty. When cleaning, do not use ammonia, this will actually signal your dog to go potty in that spot.

Do Not Punish Accidents:
Your dog will not understand the punishment. They will not know why you are mad at them. If your dog makes a mistake because you are not paying attention, that mistake is yours, not your dog's. Do not physically punish your dog. He does not understand this and it may build fear instead of your intended result.