There are approximate 4 1/2 million people bitten each year by dogs. Many of these bites could be prevented by a simple understanding of dogs. Unfortunately, many of the victims of these dog bites are children and many of them need medical attention. However, there are ways to avoid the scene to the left, by simply understanding why dogs bite. Here are the top five reasons that dogs bite.

The Five Main Reasons Dogs Bite

One of the main reasons that dogs bite is for protection of something. Whether it is protection of property or protection of their personal property.

This is a large issue when it comes to dogs, especially when children are bitten. Dogs, just like children, are territorial over their things. This such as toys, food, territory, or their human being. Who are then umber one offenders in this situation? Guard dogs and herding breeds.

Another reasons dogs tend to bite out of nowhere, is fear. This fear is typically toward strangers. This is why we should never approach a dog that we do not know.

Dogs bite when they are startled or un-socialized, and this is impossible to tell any of this just by looking at them from a distance.

One of the most un-readable reasons for dogs to bite is pain. Pain is something that we cannot read in dogs. If you are not sure if your dog is feeling pain, you should schedule a vet appointment.

Even the most well trained dog could turn into a spasmatic biter after they have had puppies. This is something that a child should not test under any circumstances, and is very difficult to train away before the mother loses interest in the puppies at the time of weening. The female dog may be willing to bite at anyone in the entire house, no matter how comfortable they may have been previously.

Prey drive can be a huge instinct to compete with. Unfortunately, this can be triggered by anything, such as someone running by or a bicycle going past.

If you dog has been known to have a prey drive of any sort, it is necessary to train them to the full extent. The issue with a strong prey drive is that even a someone passing by that makes eye contact with your dog can trigger it.

By Charlene Little, Contributing Writer

Crate training is seen by most as a cruel act. However, this simple act can keep your dog out of trouble when you are not home and provide many benefits for your dog. After training your dog will find his crate a great place to kick back and relax in his spare time.

Safety

Dogs are curious creatures. They can be extremely nosy at times, even when they are well trained. Crate training your dog will ensure that they do not get into anything poisonous or dangerous while you are not home. Dogs do not know that electrical wires are dangerous, and unfortunately it does happen. An electrical shock can cause serious injury, respiratory problems, cardiac arrest, and death in a dog. Crating your puppy will prevent this from occurring when you are not home.

Damage Prevention
You would be amazed at how much damage a puppy or a dog, can create. The amount can add up, depending on what their favorite things to chew on are. Some dogs like couch cushions, wooden table legs, and some actually will chew through your wall.

Discipline
No, I do not mean to use the crate as discipline. I mean helping your dog develop a schedule. When you are about to go to work, your dog will learn to go into his crate. Dogs thrive on things being typical and understandable

Somewhere To Hang Out
You have your places to hang out, your dog has his. If properly crate trained, your dog will love to hang out in his crate and will enjoy sleeping there. It will become his space, and a place where he is comfortable and happy.

House Breaking
House breaking your dog can be difficult. However, if your puppy is crate trained, chances are, he won't go to the bathroom in his crate. Dogs do not like to go to the bathroom where they sleep and unless he really has to go, he most likely won't.

About the Author

Charlene Little is the mother of three wonderful boys and a volunteer foster mom for her local animal shelter. She enjoys working with various breeds of dogs and cats in learning social behavior, training, and how to be the successful member of a fur-ever family. She enjoys studying animals' behavior and finding solutions to behavior problems that the everyday person can handle. She covers topics from various forms of aggression and small problem behaviors. Every problem behavior has a solution, and the solution is never to give up on your pet! Love, kindness, and small adjustments could be just what you need.

By Charlene Little, Contributing Writer

Contrary to what most people believe, a dominant dog is not always a male. It is the dog in the group that wants to show that they are dominant. When a dog looks at a human, they cannot tell the difference in you and them. They just know they want to be top dog of the house.

A dog that is either showing dominance or craving dominance does not do so instantly. It is something that happens over a long period of time. Most of the dogs that develop a dominant nature are what is considered the alpha dog. This means that in a pack situation, they want to run the show. Here is what to look for if you think your dog is showing dominant behavior.

-Growling

-Biting

-Demanding

-Stubbornness

-Headstrong

-Pushiness

-Begging

-Pushing a toy and pawing you

-Nudging to get petted

-Sitting on high surfaces and looking down on surroundings

-Guarding a human from approaching people. (The dog is not protecting you, he is claiming you and essentially feels he "owns" you.

-High pitched noises as if they are protesting what they don't want to do

-Barking or whining at their humans (this is not "talking" unless they are commanded to do so)

-Persistence to be on furniture when they are asked to stay off of it. ("This is mine" behavior)

-Insisting on going in and out of doors before their human

-Insisting on getting through the doorway first

-Walking in front of humans when they are on a leash.

-Refusing to walk on a leash

-Nipping or biting people's heals

-Ignoring commands they know

-Not liking humans touching their food

-Standing on your lap

-Demanding where they sleep

-Obvious annoyance if they are disturbed while sleeping

-Sleeping on top of their human

If your dog is showing any of these signs, it may be that they feel the need to be dominant. You must remember, dogs have not always been pets. They were wild and lived as a pack. To have a successful pack, you must first have a leader. If you do not lead the pack, they will try to assume the role of the leader, and this can lead to serious trouble down the road.

If you want your dog to be a pet, you must show them that they do not run the house and that they do not own you. In return, you do not act as though you "own" them either. They are a friend, a companion, a loved member of your family, but they do not run the show. Behaviors that you may think are harmless can lead to human aggression later in their life.

You must first determine the behaviors that you want to stop. Let's say that Fido wants to bite Spot every time he gets near you. This behavior must stop, and then you need to come up with a game plan on how to stop it. See my article on how to train a dominant dog.

About the Author

Charlene Little is the mother of three wonderful boys and a volunteer foster mom for her local animal shelter. She enjoys working with various breeds of dogs and cats in learning social behavior, training, and how to be the successful member of a fur-ever family. She enjoys studying animals' behavior and finding solutions to behavior problems that the everyday person can handle. She covers topics from various forms of aggression and small problem behaviors. Every problem behavior has a solution, and the solution is never to give up on your pet! Love, kindness, and small adjustments could be just what you need.

By Charlene Little, Contributing Writer

There are many ways that dogs get free from a fence, and many do it just for fun. Smaller breed dogs like to run free, and it can quickly become a game to them. Here are some fairly inexpensive tricks to reinforce your fence and keep them from running free.

Chicken Wire
Regardless of what type of fence you have, chicken wire makes a great addition to keep your dog in. dig down several inches below the ground surface.
If you have a wooden fence, attach the chicken wire with u shaped nails to the fence. If your fence is chain link, attach it with strips of wire in a twisted fashion. This will not only keep your dog from tearing through your fence, it will keep them from digging under it as well.

Sideways Planking
If you have a wooden fence that your dog keeps pulling at, use the same boards to reinforce the bottom. Turn the boards sideways, this way, even if they pull piece off of the board, they still cannot escape.

Tie Outs
No one wants to resort to using a tie out on their dog. However, after your dog gets out of your yard and goes for their stroll, tie them out the next few times they go outside. After a few times of getting out and then having to be tied out, they may change their mind about going for a stroll alone.

Exercise Your Dog
Your dog may be getting out because he is bored. Take him for a walk at least twice a day, this may cure his taste for freedom and exercise. Give him lots of treats and toys, an under stimulated dog will find plenty of mischief to get into.

Even if you are tired, there are great ways to exercise your dog. Playing fetch does not take much out of you, simply sit in a lawn chair and toss a ball. Your dog will love it, and you can sit back with a cold glass of lemonade.

About the Author

Charlene Little is the mother of three wonderful boys and a volunteer foster mom for her local animal shelter. She enjoys working with various breeds of dogs and cats in learning social behavior, training, and how to be the successful member of a fur-ever family. She enjoys studying animals' behavior and finding solutions to behavior problems that the everyday person can handle. She covers topics from various forms of aggression and small problem behaviors. Every problem behavior has a solution, and the solution is never to give up on your pet! Love, kindness, and small adjustments could be just what you need.

By Charlene Little, Contributing Writer

Crate training your puppy is necessary but can be difficult if you do not properly approach the situation. Approach crate training in a positive manner, never make it a negative experience for your puppy or you will have to start at the beginning and it will be hard to get your puppy to trust it again.

1.) Separate Your Crate
Taking your crate apart and only providing the puppy with the bottom portion to explore will give them a sense of ease. They will have the ability to go in and out without feeling closed in. Provide proper bedding inside the crate, just in case they decide to take a nap. Drop treats in  every once in a while, such as a dog biscuit. They will see that this can be a positive place.

Crate training your puppy is necessary but can be difficult if you do not properly approach the situation. Approach crate training in a positive manner, never make it a negative experience for your puppy or you will have to start at the beginning and it will be hard to get your puppy to trust it again.

2.) Promote Healthy Discovery
When you feel that your puppy is ready, reassemble the crate without the door. Continue to toss treats in throughout the day. This will show them that the closed area is the same as the open one. After a bit, your dog may begin to take naps in the crate and hang out in it. Their treats being tossed in will show them that it is their space.

3.) Make It a Game
Making the crate a game will bring a sense of being there forever. Your puppy will see it as always being there and always being full of treats. They will see it a positive place. Walking by your puppy's crate and tossing in a treat is great but bringing your voice into it really helps. Try tossing a treat in and asking your puppy "where did the biscuit go?" They will associate you being interested in it as well.

4.) Try Crating for Short Periods
When you first start shutting the door, you can try feeding your puppy at his crate. Place his food outside the crate door the first few times. Move the bowl into the center of the crate the next few times, and then to the back for a few times. After a few times of your puppy eating in the back of the crate, try shutting the door. If your puppy dislikes the idea, open it back up. After trying this a few times, try leaving the door shut while you do dishes. Never go to far away from the crate. You do not want them to associate the crate as you putting them in there to leave.

5.) Do not Use Crating as a Punishment
Never use crating as a punishment. You want your puppy to associate the crate with a positive thought. If your puppy begins to associate the crate with negative thoughts, they will not handle crating well in the future.

6.) Do Not Punish Potty Accidents in the Crate
Young puppies do not have very good bladders. They must go to the bathroom often and crating is not ideal for youngsters. Do not punish potty accidents in the crate, your puppy does not like going to the bathroom where he sleeps any more than you like cleaning it up.

7.) Extend Crating Time
Slowly extend crate time. This does not mean make your puppy live in the crate. Allowing him to stay in for a little more time here and there helps them learn the idea of crating. Try leaving him in while you do small chores, such as hanging the clothes on the line, or doing the dishes.

8.) Do a Dry Run
Leave your puppy's crate where you can hear him while you do small gardening projects outside. Place your puppy in the crate for the time that you are doing your project. Make sure to leave the window open while you are outside so you can hear how he is doing. If your puppy does good while he is in the crate, do not go straight to him. Go in, wash your hands and pour yourself a cold drink before letting him out. This will ensure that he does not go crazy when you let him out. It will also let him see that you are there and give him time to adjust back to normal before his door is open.

9.) Crate for a Small Errand
After you are comfortable with the way your puppy is responding to his crate, leave him in for a short time while you run a small errand. Remember, do not let him out the second you come into the house. Give him a few minutes to adjust before you open his door.

10.) Slowly Extend Crate Time
When your puppy is responding well, slowly extend his crate time to a work day. This will ensure that he will get used to being in the crate while you are at work.

Between the time that your puppy is beginning crate training, until he is completely crate trained, you should leave him in a closed room where he cannot get into anything. This will ensure his safety and your ability to completely crate train him before leaving him locked in it for a full shift.

Charlene Little is the mother of three wonderful boys and a volunteer foster mom for her local animal shelter. She enjoys working with various breeds of dogs and cats in learning social behavior, training, and how to be the successful member of a fur-ever family. She enjoys studying animals' behavior and finding solutions to behavior problems that the everyday person can handle. She covers topics from various forms of aggression and small problem behaviors. Every problem behavior has a solution, and the solution is never to give up on your pet! Love, kindness, and small adjustments could be just what you need.

If your dog barks, growls or bites at other animals or people when they have their food in front of them, this is considered food aggression. This is easily remedied and can be solved fairly simple.

What Your Dog Is Thinking

If your dog growls, snarls, bites at or barks at you or other animals, they are saying "this is mine, go away, find your own, because you're not getting it." It is their way of saying that they are dominant and that they run the show. This is not a situation that will just remedy itself, it will take some work and effort on your part.

The Beginning of Food Aggression

Food aggression begins with a little growl or bark at the food bowl. In the beginning, it is cute and adorable and it may just seem like the dog is playing. This is the time to stop it if you haven't let it go beyond this point. This frustration could turn dangerous for you or children in your home.

Why Your Dog Has Developed Food Aggression

An irregular feeding schedule could cause food aggression. Not knowing when they are going to be fed again could cause him to guard this resource. He feels that he must protect it in order to keep it. They would respond the same way in a pack type situation. Remember, dogs have not always been domesticated and they, at one point, had to defend their food. Whether your dog personally has or not, they have it built into their brain. In this case, you will need to proceed with dominance training with your dog.

If your dog has had a dominance problem in the past, this could be attributed to that. The alpha dog eats before the other dogs in the wild, he may be telling you to back off until he gets his fill. In this case, you need to redirect who is who in the situation and teach them who is dominant. Try using the NILIF program to retrain this behavior.

Your dog may not know that what he is doing is wrong. Try correcting this communication problem by saying "no" as a redirection. If your dog responds to the "no" command and the behavior resolves, he simply didn't know that he was out of line in the first place.

Solving Food Aggression

Solving food aggression is not something that happens over night, even though it may have started over night. Realizing that your dog is basically throwing a tantrum over food is necessary to regain control of the situation. Here are some rules to follow for resolving food aggression.

When your dog barks, growls, snarls or acts like a 2-year old over food, backing off is giving him what he wants. If you know for a fact that your dog will not bite you, remove the bowl from him, showing him that you own the food. Have him do something for you before you give it back, such as sit, down, or shake. Move the food to another spot in the room before giving it back to him/her. This will show that you control when and where he gets food and that he doesn't call the shots.

***If you think your dog will bite you, leave the bowl where it is but stay close enough that he can see that you are not a threat to his food.

If your dog is aggressive toward other dog during meal time, don't feed them in the same room. Feed them in separate rooms and slowly move their bowls toward one another at each meal time.

Feed the dog in different places every day, make them do something for you before you give them the food. Examples are sit, down, paw. I recommend using the down command. This is the most submissive position possible for a dog. Having them lay and roll onto their back before they get their food forces them to realize that you are the dominant dog, and that is what you need for a safe and happy home.

Feed your dog after your family eats. This establishes the pack mentality. In the wild, the dominant dog eats first and the submissive dogs eat last. Your family eats first and the dog eating after, shows the dog that he is not the one in control and that the humans are the dominant factor in the house. Your dog will probably understand this at a deeper level than you do.

Do not be mean to your dog. If you intimidate him, this will only make the behavior worse. Responding to your dog's aggressive behavior with aggression will cause a battle of will between the two of you and you could cause them to bite or injure you.

If your dog is just beginning the behavior, begin feeding them out of your hand. This will show them that you give him the food, and have no desire to take it away.

Pet your dog while they are eating at their bowl and talk to them with a soothing voice.

If your dog snarls, bites, or growls when you get near his food bowl, keep your distance. Every once in a while throw a dog treat his way and move a little closer. This will show him that you do not mean him harm and reward him for allowing your closer.

Keep a little of his food in your hand while he is eating. After he is finished eating and he is satisfied that his bowl is clean. Hold your hand out and offer the food, he will see that you mean his food no harm.

Give your dog an empty bowl. Placing an empty bowl on the floor might get you some strange looks from your dog but trust me, it works. As he is sitting there looking at you if you are completely insane, take a little bit of food and place it in the bowl. He will then see that the food came from you. When he is finished, tell him to sit. If he sits, give him a little more. This shows him that you wish to give him food, not take it away and also shows him that you control this resource.

When you think of your puppy, you probably think that they will not have a problem with a collar. However, collars can cause puppies and dogs both distress. This can lead to difficult behavior and lost collars. Properly teaching your puppy to wear a collar can make your life, and theirs, a lot more comfortable.

Let Your Puppy Explore His Collar
Before you attempt to put a collar on your puppy, you should let him explore it long enough to ensure him that it will not harm him. This may even involve letting him chew on one.

Place The Collar on Your Pup:
Place the collar on your pup. If he panics, take it off. You do not want him to become afraid of it.  Try putting it on him a few times per day for a short period of time, but take it off if he seems overwhelmed by it.

When He is Ready:

When your puppy seems comfortable with his collar being placed on him. Leave it for a little longer every time. When you get him to the point where he is comfortable with it for at least 10 minutes, you should be able to leave it on him. If he shows any distress, you should take it off of him immediately.

Once your puppy is able to leave his collar on for an extended period of time, you will want him to get comfortable with it before you begin leash training. Give him at least a week or two, before you attach a leash.

Do you have an adult cat that will not use the litter box? This is a problem for many people. Sometimes it happens to people who have had their cat for years. Other times it happens to those who recently got a new cat from the animal shelter. Either way, you know you have to stop your cat from going to the bathroom where they want, and get them to go where they are supposed to, their litter box. This can be a challenge for even the most determined pet owner, or the most determined trainer. I can tell you through personal experience, it is not easy, but a cat can be retrained to use the litter box. Don't give up on your pet, they love you, and they will adjust to going in the litter box after a little behavior modification.

The method of training that I prefer to use is based on a cat's natural instinct to go to the bathroom in a sandy substance, and the fact that they prefer to bury their waste. These are the instincts that you as a human must rely on. No amount of confining your cat will work unless you rely on your cat's instincts.

Cats are among the most stubborn of creatures. They know they can outsmart you, and they know that you are irritated by their unwillingness to do as they are told. Many people find that their cat will purposely do the opposite of what they say, just because they can, and this is true for many cats.

Where To Start:
If you already have a litter box, you might have to purchase a new one. This is because the cat may not like the one you gave him. Cats are picky and if they despise something, they will show it.

Most cats do not like the idea of an open liter box. They prefer their privacy and they will not go to the bathroom if someone is watching. If you have noticed that your cat does not like their litter box, that might be the problem  you are facing. Try changing their liter box to one of the ones below. This may remedy your problem without having to bat an eyelash.

Change Your Litter:
If your cat still refuses to use the litter box, try changing your cat liter. Some cats do not like the feel of certain litter. I have seen some that prefer the clay gravel litter, and some that prefer the small granulated litter. Many cats will not go in a litter that they do not like.

Keep Your Litter Box Clean:
If you have more than one cat, one of them may not be fond of sharing a toilet with the other, even if they are the best of friends. Purchase a second litter box for the cat that does not want to share. This will ensure that your cat has a clean, personal place to go.

Confining Your Cat:
Unfortunately, you might have to resort to confining your cat for a short period of time while your cat is relearning this step in life. Purchase a small cat carrier that is made of hard plastic, like the one to the right. Keep your cat in it with the litter box, food and water. Do not allow your cat to run about the house until s/he decides to use the litter box. Your cat will not want to go to the bathroom where they eat and sleep, they will eventually decide that they will use the litter box.

Many people shy away from this step because they do not want to spend the money on the heavy duty carrier. Just keep in mind that the price is worth it to save your furniture, and the resale value, even at a yard sale, will be fairly close to what you pay for it.

Once your cat is using the litter box you can open the door and let him him/her out, but leave the cat's litter box inside of the crate for the time being.

Choose a Place For the Litter Box:
Choosing a place for the liter box is a very tedious chore. Mostly because the cat is going to be picky about it himself. Try a place like your bathroom or your laundry room and you will be sure to score points with your cat.

Understanding your cats instincts is important. He will want a private place to go to the bathroom that people cannot watch him.

If you adopt a kitten and it has not been litter trained, chances are it was taken away from its mother to early. Cats are tedious creatures and like things in a certain way. Mother cats insist on cleanliness from their kittens. If provided the resources, they will litter train the kitten by the time they are 8 weeks old. If your kitten isn' t litter trained, the responsibility of mothering this kitten falls on you, and it will not be easy. Cats and kittens are stubborn beings and will fight you tooth and nail about training. With a little persistence and a little stubborn will of your own, you can litter train your kitten.

What You Will Need:
You will need a small, kitten size litter box. This is not the time to buy something fancy, just a little cheap litter box will do. If the litter box is to tall, or the edges are too deep, the kitten will steer clear of this box.

When picking the litter, do not choose a clumping litter. Choose a clay based litter that is unscented. Don't worry, one little kitten won't make it stink right away, they do not produce a lot of waste in a day or two. Simply scooping out solid material will be efficient for a little guy.

Once Your Kitten Starts Using the Box:
Once your kitten begins using the liter box to potty in. Begin moving it toward the place that you actually want to keep the pan. This will allow him to transition to the place that you have chosen for him to potty.

Keep the litter box cleaned and ensure that it does not have an odor. Cats will not use a liter box that has a smell. or visible waste in it. Keep this in mind when you see waste in the box.

Keep A Close Eye on Your Kitten:
Kittens show signs that they have to go. Typically, the meow extremely loud and run toward a hiding spot. If your kitten does this, grab him up and rush him to the litter box.

Cats are very smart creatures. If your kitten has an accident, do not get upset with him and DO NOT rub his nose in it. Simply show him the mess, let him smell it, and walk him to the litter box. After a few times, he will learn to associate the action as "you do not need to go here, you need to go in your pan."

Litter training a kitten takes about 1 month to six weeks.

How To Keep the Pan Clean:
It is important to scoop solid waste once or twice a day. You can place the waste in a plastic, resealable bag so that you don't have to toss it in your trashcan. After the bag is partially full, seal it up and toss it in the garbage.

You should completely dump the pan once every two weeks. Wash out the pan wish dish soap, dry it well, and refill it with about an inch of liter.

As the kitten grows, you can upgrade to bigger and better pans. There are a few recommendations below and I have personally used all three. I prefer the Cat Genie 120, for sanitary reasons. It is the actual model that is in my bathroom as I write this! However, they all have perks. Imagine a world where you don't have to worry about the litter pan other than disposing of waste!

In addition, the Cat Genie 120 uses biodegradable material that is washed every time your cat uses the litter box. I got mine in an effort to help save the environment and keep my hands litter free. How can you beat that?

Creating Your Dog's Living Space:
Creating your dog's living space is simple. The best results will be obtained by giving your dog place to call their own, or a den. This area should contain the dogs bed, food bowl, water bowl, and toys. Many people choose to place the den in their living room, so their dog is near them.

Supervision:
Supervision is necessary. You must pay attention to your dog to learn their potty cues. Many dogs spin in a circle a few times before they begin to relieve themselves. If your dog does this, it is their cue that they need to go to the bathroom.

When you cannot be with them at every second for a while, you need to create a smaller den for your dog. This type of area would be a bathroom, with a baby gate on the door so that you can see in, they can see out, but it limits their ability to make a potty mess on your floor.

Another option for supervision is a crate. If your dog is not crate trained, you may want to baby gate them in the bathroom until you do crate train. Simply tossing your dog in a crate without proper training can be traumatizing.

Going Outside:
Going outside with your dog on bathroom trips is necessary to the training process. You must be able to directly see them do their business to know when to praise them. Praise your dog as soon as they go to the bathroom. Reward them with a lot of pets and tell them that they were a "good boy/girl." Dogs aim to please their owners and will love the attention. They will want to potty outside more often to get the praise.

Take your dog out often. They will need to go out at least six times per day. Take them to the same part of the yard every time. Remember to praise your dog at every success. Do not scold them for not carrying thorough, that will build fear.

Clean Up Potty Spots:
Cleaning up potty thoroughly is unbelievably important. Your dog has a great sense of smell so you must ensure that any potty is thoroughly cleaned up. You don't want your dog to smell any old accidents, they will believe that it is in fact a bathroom.

Deodorant sprays do not work to remove the chemical in a dogs potty that will signal them to go in that spot again. After cleaning the spot use an odor neutralizer,  I recommend vinegar. Your house may smell of vinegar for a day or two, but it is much better than smelling like dog potty. When cleaning, do not use ammonia, this will actually signal your dog to go potty in that spot.

Do Not Punish Accidents:
Your dog will not understand the punishment. They will not know why you are mad at them. If your dog makes a mistake because you are not paying attention, that mistake is yours, not your dog's. Do not physically punish your dog. He does not understand this and it may build fear instead of your intended result.

You found the most adorable, cuddly, fuzzy little guy at the shelter or in the newspaper. You get them home and they fit perfectly into your family. You are so happy until the moment that they decide the center of your living room carpet is there for their personal toilet.

This is the moment that reality hits and you decided that your puppy needs to be trained. Where do you start? How do you convince this adorable little fuzzball that he needs to potty outside, and not on your carpet on laminate floor? I will tell you the easiest way to potty train a puppy.

Pay Attention:
Paying attention to your little cuddle buddy will prove to be the most valuable asset in house training. This step will show you what cues your puppy uses to show that they have to go potty. Many puppies signal that they have to go by turning in circles.

After Eating or Drinking:
Take your puppy outside shortly after they eat or drink. Puppies tend to potty within 10 to 15 minutes from the time they eat or drink . Taking them outside at the 10 minute mark will allow them to do their business outside.

Praise:
Praise your puppy after he goes potty outside. He will relate positive interaction with going potty outside. Puppies are people pleasers, they want to make you happy and they want to get praise.

Do Not Play With Them:
During potty time, do not play with your puppy. Puppies will forget about needing to go to the bathroom if they have someone to play with. Let them use this time to sniff around and get the feel of the yard. When the urge hits, they will do the deed. Do not forget his praise.

Consistency:
Puppies have a small body, and in return, they have small organs. They cannot hold in their potty for a long period of time. Take your puppy outside every half hour to 45 minutes. They will see that you insist that they do their business outside the house. Failing to be consistent will confuse your puppy.

Another part of consistency is using the same door, and the same part of your yard every time you take your puppy outside. This may seem strange, but changing the area can lead to confusion. Their scent in the grass will remind them what they do in this area. They will be able to remind themselves that it is time to potty.

Crate Training:
Do not crate train a puppy that is less that 16 weeks old. Their bladder cannot handle prolonged periods of holding it. They will inevitably potty in their crate and relate it with a negative place. Dogs do not like to potty where they sleep, if they are forced to potty where they sleep, they can relate that place to negative feelings. We will talk about crate training in another post.

When Your Puppy Potties Outside;
When your puppy potties outside, use the words that you want them to associate with potty.  "Go potty, good boy/girl, go potty." After your puppy finishes going potty, give them lots of love and praise. They will feel proud that they made you happy.

If Your Puppy Potties Inside:
If you catch your puppy going potty inside do not scold them. Pick them up and carry them outside the second you catch them. Let them finish their business outside. Even though your puppy started going potty inside, praise them if they finish outside. Just as you would if they went outside for the entire incident.

Puppy Training Pads:
Many people believe that puppy training pads can reinforce negative behavior. If you are not home all the time, consider using a puppy training pad while you are gone. Remember, puppies cannot hold it for a long period of time. Giving them a secure place to go potty when they have no other choice, will prevent damage to your carpet and flooring and still reinforce that there is a specific place that they are required to potty.

More From Caradwyn:

Learning What Your Dog Needs Directly From Him: Exercise

The Downside of the Free Puppy Trend

How to Tell What Your Dog is Thinking

Training should begin as soon as your dog comes into your care. Just as you do with your children, you pets need a routine and a schedule. They need rules and regulations just as your child does.

It is important to start early and remain stable with their schedule, rules, and regulations to prevent confusion.

With dogs and cats, it is important to start with potty behaviors.
                 
               ~ Where to potty
              ~ Potty is not acceptable in the floor.

Training should start with necessary commands. Things such as potty are important for dogs and cats. For dogs specifically, you should train them sit, stay, extended stay, and down (lay). These commands will allow you to control their behavior, prevent development of problem behavior, and decrease the risk of dangerous situations, such as running out the door between your legs.

Training is also necessary if you plan to take your dog on public walks, on trails, or to dog parks. Ensuring that they will listen is necessary for their safety, other people's safety, and the safety of other dogs at the park.

You could try to train your cat to do these tricks, but honestly, they will just laugh at you, flick their tail, and walk away. However, some people have taught their cats to use the toilet, this is one topic that we are going to cover for you.

The next five points we will cover are:

             ~~ House training a puppy (8 weeks - 6 months)
            ~~ House training a dog (6 months and up)
            ~~ Litter training a kitten (8 weeks - 6 months)
            ~~ Litter training a cat (6 months and up)
            ~~ Teaching your cat to use the toilet (yes! you really can!)

This topic was inspired by my dog Aztec, you can read the full story here. In short, Aztec was surrendered to the animal shelter, by someone who found him running free. Someone who had spent money on his vaccines, having him neutered, and loving this dog for at least six months before he took off, we thought. He was a purebred Patterdale terrier, his breed runs a pretty penny. Most likely, his family got him from a breeder and spent several hundred dollars on him. Due to lack of training, personality issues, and lack of socialization, he was on death row.

Aztec was considered extremely aggressive and was going to be euthanized, as soon as they could pin him down long enough. He sat guarding his kennel and attempted to bite anyone and everyone who came near him. By a stroke of craziness, we decided to give this little violent dog a chance. Since I volunteer at this animal shelter they decided to give it a try. They liked my previous work with dogs inside the shelter that were considered violent and the training I have done with the ones that I bring home for training. This dog, they had little faith would change.

Truthfully, I had to sign a waiver to take him out of the shelter. The waiver stated that I was responsible for his actions, both physically and financially. I also had to sign stating that I was aware that I was taking home a vicious dog. After the shelter director climbed into his cage and removed him, using welders gloves, we took him home. Removing the cage from the car, he tried to bite our fingers. Our neighbor came over to see what the ruckus was. We explained the situation to him. He gave us a reassuring "good luck," and went on his way.

After getting him in the house, and managing to make it with all of our fingers intact,  my boyfriend sat in the computer room alone with Aztec in his cage. He opened the door to this little guy's cage and sat for about an hour and a half with him. After spending that time with this adorable little guy, he decided to trust him. With in the next half hour, we had introduced him to the kids and he was playing with them like he had always been here.  We then realized, this little guy had come that close to death because he was scared.

No, I don't recommend that everyone go to the shelter and pick up a vicious dog. Aztec is now my dog, and living proof that there is no behavior that with proper training, cannot be changed or remedied with a few adjustments. Positive integration of a pet into a home involves learning from them, teaching your children how to positively interact with pets of all kinds, and fulfilling your pet's needs. You must also understand their emotions, and listen to their body language to know what they need more, or less of.

In order for a pet to live a fulfilling life, their natural instincts must be met. It is important to realize the history and reasons pets were originally "tamed." This will lead you to understanding what they need. Another important point is to understand how their lives were structured in the past, before the species was tamed. You're probably thinking that it shouldn't matter, it has been centuries since they were tamed. However, their natural instincts are  imbedded in their subconscious, they don't even know they are there.

Training helps to recreate their natural pecking order and chain of dominance. It provides positive mental and physical stimulation. It helps teach them who is dominant, so they do not feel that they need to fulfill that role themselves. Training allows you to regulate their behavior and prevent safety issues for your family and your pet.

By not properly training your pet, you are not doing them any favors. It can allow serious issues, such as darting out the door, them taking a dominant role in your home, aggression, or depression in your pet.

This blog was created to help you learn how to positively train your pet, and how to correct problems in a positive way.